Day one in Florence

Florence

While in Montepulciano I talked with Mike on the phone. He told me Shunji was trying to reach me, that he had emailed me. Shunji was going to be in Florence the same 2 days Susie and I were to be there. One of the people traveling with Shunji couldn’t go at the last minute and he had an extra room in the apartment for Susie and I. We cancelled our hotel reservations and decided to stay with them. We were to call them when we arrived at the bus station to get directions to the apartment.

Ok, we arrived at the bus station. It looked like it was going to down pour any minute. Better get the raincoat out. Since we were going to leave Florence in two days by train and the train station was close by we decided to buy our train ticket back to Rome. It’s always good when you land in one destination and you know when and where you are going, you should always buy your ticket. Usually the bus and train stations are very close together.

Rain, Rain and more rain. Trying to get to the train station. OMG, steps, steps and more steps with the stupid luggage. Have I told you yet that I nick named Susie’s suitcase, oh yeah, not big Bertha but Grande Bertha. It always took the two of us to manage her in the steps. People would just look at us and we would start laughing. Made it to the station.

Got our ticket to Rome. Called Shunji to get directions, this sounded like a journey. Susie was having trouble understanding Shunji’s directions so she gave the phone to me (the person who doesn’t have any sense of direction). Are we really going to walk there on these cobblestone roads with all our luggage? I think we are. Finally it stopped raining. It should have taken us about 15 minutes but it ended up taking us 45 minutes. God I was tired and we were to meet Susie’s cousin for dinner at 5:30.

Patti, Shunji’s friend met us on the other side of the Ponte S. Tinita (one of the many Florence Bridges) and helped us with our luggage the rest of the way. Finally made it to the apartment. It was right by The Pitti Palace. Now we get to rest. Patti then tells us we are on the fourth floor. And guess what? No elevator. All I can say is what have I done to deserve this? Shunji greets us just as we are ready to start the climb and takes one end of Grande Bertha with Susie. I stopped counting the steps at number 35 and we still weren’t there. Bob appeared then and took over the last two flights with Bertha. I thought my arm was never going to be the same after carrying everything up, up, up. All I can say is I’m glad Kathy my trainer made me do all the upper body work. Made it to the top. What a great apartment. Susie and I had our own bedroom and bathroom. It was old and quaint. We loved it.

I decided to go with Patti and Shunji to the grocery store down the street and I would meet up with Susie at her cousins. She lived very close by, Patti and Shunji said they would walk me there.

Went to the store to pick up a few items and little sightseeing. After about an hour and a half we decided to walk to Lisa’s apartment (Susie’s cousin). She has lived in Florence for four years. She has written a book about the Piazza’s of Florence.

Found Lisa’s, her apartment was only two blocks from the Apt. Shunji, Patti and I went up the many steps. Met Lisa and her daughter Ella. Had a great time; Shunji & Ella visited in Italian, we enjoyed looking at Lisa’s gallery of paintings and her newly published book on Florence. Patti was very interested in her book. However Lisa stated it was not available in the US, something about the publisher. Shunji and Patti then left because they had other dinner arrangements.



Ella, Lisa and Susie

Jean and Susie in front of Lisa's painting

Susie and I had another very yummy dinner. It was homemade risotto with pumpkin and accented with other wonderful spices. It was delicious. She served it with caramelized fennel. WOW! More wine and another dessert wine. We had a very fun evening. Back to the apartment for some R&R. Tomorrow we are heading to the Gallery of the Academy (Academia). That is where the Tribute to David is displayed.



Stay tune………

Day in Siena

Siena


I think the first thing I want to say about Siena is that we should have stayed longer. What a beautiful city and very easy to get around. We checked into our hotel, which was Albergo Chiusarelli. Susie, the hotel snob didn’t like our first room, which we had six steps up, then down a hall and six steps back down. She didn’t like the room because it was to close to the city bus stop. She then requested another room. This room was on the third or forth floor. Oh, did I tell you there was no elevator. Only 40 steps with the luggage this time. Finally settled.

It was Wednesday and they have this street market every Wednesday. Very large. Oh, more shopping and those bags are getting heavier and heavier. Got some great buys at the market.

They were also having this NBA Jam in this square by the market. This will be great I thought I can buy Nick a great t-shirt. They’re were some Italian basketball players there who play for the Siena team. Of course they are from the US. Nick if you spoke Italian maybe, you could get a job here. Anyway they wouldn’t let me just buy a t-shirt, I had to join something to get it. So I put down some fake info and paid the fee to get the shirt.

Back to the hotel to drop our purchases off. Started back out and did more shopping. It was starting to rain a little and we decided we were hungry. We found this great place that was tented and had this great statue beside it.

We had an antipasto first. Susie and I decided to have wine and so the waiter brought us a bottle of house wine. Guess we might be here awhile. There is always bread on the table. Did I mention in Italy you really don’t have to tip. Maura also told us that the first night. Anyway, we also had salami and cheese. All of a sudden it started to down pour and I mean downpour. They even put the sides of the tent down and you see it really raining. Wow, how long was this going to last and I didn’t bring my raincoat because it didn’t look like rain. Oh well back to eating, drinking and visiting the couple at the table next to us. They were from Germany and had been traveling in Northern Italy hiking. He shared video clips of their journey. Great way to spend a rainy afternoon. Ok, now back to the food; I ordered gnocchi again and Susie had some pasta with mushrooms and cream sauce. They use mushrooms a lot here and they are delicious. We had tiramisu again. I am never having tiramisu again when I get home because it will never taste like this. After a couple of hours sitting, eating and drinking we decide we better get a move on.

Jean at Il Campo

They have very beautiful boutiques here. So many interesting and fascinating things. Lot’s of pottery here also. I made one contact that I will follow up on when I get home. The name of the road that we continued to shop on was di Sopra and di Catta. These two roads led us to the big square called Il Campo. This is where they have a horse racing event, called Palio and it is held on July 2 and August 16. The seventeen city neighborhoods challenge each other in this historical race. The neighborhood that wins get honored for the year by flying their flag.

Can’t visit a town without visiting a church. So we went to Bacilica St. Govanii. Spectacular! This was built with all white and black stone. They are all so unusual and full of much art.








We then went to dinner at a little place across from St. Catherine’s Cathedral. We decided this would have been a good place to spend more time. We decided to take a later bus to Florence so we could have a few more hours here.

After checking out and carrying our luggage down all those steps again. We did a little more exploring. We had lunch at this great little outdoor café that overlooked the town and across to the Basilica. Great food and a great view. Walked with the luggage to the bus station, more cobblestones. Which bus to get on and in which area. Gotta get there fast because they always leave on time and do we have to validate this ticket? On the bus or in the bus? All these decisions. There is outside validation so let’s do it outside and hope we are right. Finally on the bus and heading to Florence. Now we can relax for 2 hours.

Stay tune……..

Third day in Montepulciano

Third day in Montepulciano


Up for the third day. First things first, pottery. Ok met with Omerd and came up with an agreement. He will be shipping in about a week. Next we are off to 2 more little towns in Tuscany. On our way there we stopped at an incredible wrought iron works and shop. This business has been in the family for four generations. Their work was intricate, artistic and amazing. If Susie could have figured out away to get a piece back to Anacortes economically, she would have. Now we continue on to the first little town called Pienza.

Pienza is noted for a few things. I am in awe as to how much history is in all theses towns. This small little town is known for it’s many cheeses. Cheeses that they wrap up in laurel leaves and let sit for many, many years. Of course the older it is the stronger it is. They taste very, very good. We did a lot of tasting over the past few days of wine and cheese.

This is also the town that Pius the Second found. There is a large church there. For all you fans of The English Patient, this is where they swung from the rafters on a rope swing. There is a fountain off to the side in front of the church and in the movie it is seen in the center outside. The film crew recreated the fountain that was off to the side because they wanted it in the center. As I probably keep repeating, these are no ordinary churches, they are very large and elaborate.

Jean and Susie fountain in the English Patient

Jean in Piazza

Next we went to San Biagio, this is another large church just on the outskirt of Montepulciano. It too is very beautiful. This church was designed by San Gallo in the 1400’s and built in the 1500’s. It also was the church where the young couple got married in Under the Tuscan Sun. Now heading back into Montepulciano to finish up shopping. This is our last day here then off to Siena.

Back in Montepulciano we have been wanting to go into this old wine cellar. It is underground and there are tombs there. Dale and Lindy would love this place. It’s called Ercolani Winery. There are levels and levels that continue to go deeper underground. On these levels there are rows and rows of wine barrels and these wine barrels are full. It’s kind of spooky. You think you will get lost but you don’t. However, we did think that we lost Susie, but then she reappeared, she’d been searching around the tombs. After you are finished, the dark, damp path leads you up to a great shop where you can taste wines and cheese. They also have lots of olive oil. Have I mentioned the olive trees. There are rows and rows of them everywhere you look along with all the grape vines. Spectacular views everywhere you look!

Jean and Susie in the wine cellar

More from the wine cellar

More wine cellar

Winery

Back to Dick and Sue’s for a little rest before dinner. Walking, climbing, walking and more climbing. What a great 2 hour nap I had while Susie visited with her family. Great decision! We gave Dick and Sue their gifts. Since Sue admired a special piece of pottery we bought it for her. Tonight Susie was taking us all for dinner.

Eight in the evening and time for dinner. Off we walk to a nice restaurant that sits up by the little orphanage. We decide to eat in because it’s a little rainy. The name of it is I Maledetti. It was a little funky and contemporary. I had my second favorite meal to eat, ravioli. It was with a butter sauce of some kind and very good. In Italy they cook their pasta very eldente .

OK, this is where I should tell you that the customer service in Italy is not very good, at all. Maura had warned us about this the first night we were in town. She said don’t expect much service anywhere. She said it’s not like the US. Anyway back to the dinner. We wanted dessert and the waiter brought us the dessert menu and then we waited and waited and did more waiting. The waiter was enjoying his conversation with the bartender. Any way we decided to eat ice cream at home and we got the check and walked back home.

Tomorrow we are off to Siena. One more time schlepin’ our luggage up the hill, through the switchback, and over the cobblestones. Dick and Sue are driving us to Siena.Did you know that those wheels on the suitcases don’t work with cobblestones very well. Well, I’m telling you now they don‘t.

Susie at Dick and Sues

Dick and Sues Place

Stay tune……

Second day in Montepulciano

Second day in Montepulciano


It’s raining a little and a little cooler. That’s ok I brought my raincoat and it’s not raining hard. Off we go to town to see and explore. Since you don’t need a car we can come and go as we please and separate a little without getting lost.

Great shops and great people. I found a great leather shop, they make everything and really beautiful purses, oh if I only had more room I could bring some back to the shop. This is a five generation shop and the sons name is Nicolo. Next time I am going to bring an empty suitcase. We also went to this great shop of this older man who makes copper things, like pots and pans, cooking utensils and much more. The name of the shop is Mazzetti. He is about 70 years old and he is third generation. He made a beautiful plaque for the Pope and was able to present it to him because they are friends. His pots and pans were also featured in Savoure magazine. These just aren’t pots and pans these are works of art. Gorgeous.

Susie and her cousin Sue

Now off to Omerd, my pottery connection. Three rooms of pottery to pick from, oh the many choices. The way this is going to work is that I will pick out everything I want. He will give me the price. Then tomorrow he will let me know the shipping cost. Then I will sign my life away in the morning. There are so many beautiful pieces and of course I like all the big ones. The factory where these were made has shut down after many years so you won’t be seeing be seeing these any more. That’s a good thing.

Omerd and Jean buying pottery

Now off to The Piazza Grande. The cathedral is here along with the City Hall. All you fans of Under the Tuscan Sun, this is where the flag ceremony took place. It is very beautiful. Also, you fans of the upcoming New Moon Movie, (that would be me), they also filmed part of it here in the Village. If you remember in the book they talk about a place in Italy called Valera (don’t know if I spelled it correctly), they could not film there because there wasn’t enough people there so they ended up filming in Montepulciano, at this same piazza. Susie’s cousin said there were tons of young girls hanging out at the time.

Most of my internet posting has been done at Cafe Poliziano. I couldn’t get good wireless service at the house so I went in the morning and hung out at the café. Susie and I usually got cappuccino and a little treat and sat at the table. We thought since we were buying something that was allowed. I keep repeating to myself, “we’re not in America”, anyway on the last day we find out that if you sit at a table even though you purchase something you have to pay extra. So remember in Italy, if you order at the counter you stand and eat and drink there. If you sit at a table you pay for service and the price is double. We found this out the hard way of course. THERE IS NO SITTING FOR FREE.

After another wonderful day of sightseeing and shopping we went back to the house. Susie’s cousin Sue cooked us a great dinner of that pecci pasta with pesto sauce (my favorite). That is the pasta I told you about. The noodles are shaped like long, round, thick spaghetti noodles. They are delicious! More food, more pasta, more wine oh my!

Stay tune for another day…

First Day in Montepulciano

First Day in Montepulciano


Wow, lots of winding roads to get there and the most beautiful landscape. The grapevines are very spectacular and it’s just about harvest time so you can see the grapes hanging on the vines plump and ready to pop. Montepulciano is know for some of the best wines in the region. Can’t wait to try some.

Like I said before, everyone has small cars. The roads are so narrow, it’s a little scary. After being in Rome with all the traffic and crowded streets this is very peaceful. We continue on the windy road and pictures do not do this place justice. I can see why a lot of artists like to come here. The cypress trees are amazing. So tall and straight. We saw many fields of sunflowers, however, they had already bloomed and were drying up. I can only try imagined what they looked like. There are many incredible buildings just as you see in the movies. It was really something. Continue on the winding roads for awhile and finally arrive at Dick and Sue’s. Parking is very tricky because there is none or I should say very limited. OK, we arrive and Susie and I think we are going into the house we’re standing next to. Oh that’s to easy. Dick says we have to go down three switchbacks to the house. Remember no driving on a lot of the streets because there is no room. Here we go with that da-- luggage. Down the winding, uneven, narrow, cobblestone road. Yeah! The house. WOW, how beautiful with all the beautiful surroundings. First flight of stairs (15steps) to the entrance and now oh great and now another 25 to our bedroom.

We put our things down and off we go to town. What a great little town. This is the town where Sue knows the pottery guy. This town has the most unique shops. A lot of the shops are 3, 4 and 5 generation. They all make their own goods. It’s incredible. And the wine and cheese shops. Yum, yum, yum. I finally meet the man with the pottery and of course I like it. We set up a time for tomorrow that I can talk to him and purchase. We watch a short live theater production in the square which the local people put on. Fun. One thing I notice is the amount of older people (75+) who live here and Sue said they have been her all their lives. They walk up and down these winding, steep roads to town and to their little grocery. Everything is done on foot. Mary Mazzetta, maybe you should drink more wine and eat more cheese, it could give you more energy for walking.

Off to dinner to a great little restaurant. (We’ve eaten at many the past few days). They have this past that they are known for called pecci (pronounced peachy). I had risotto. Yummy! Another wonderful evening in Italy.



Stay tune………

Train from Rome to Montepulciano

Train from Rome to Montepulciano


As I said before, you better know what train your on and you better get on it fast. The train arrives and lets people off and you get on with luggage in hand, your hand.

Jake Burns we need to talk before you go to Italy. I’ll give you some great pointers and be sure you keep studying the Italian. It will really help you.

We find our seats and get luggage stowed with the help of some young Italian guy. Sitting in an area with 5 other people. Two Moms and their sons, Susie and I. The one boy sitting next to me is about 10 and the other one is about 13. We don’t speak Italian and they don’t speak English except for a few words. We are all looking at each other and smiling and the older boy begins a conservation. He asks us where we are from in a round about way. So I decide to get out my Italian dictionary. We had quite a lot of fun and laughed a lot at each other. In Italy the kids in school either take English or French. The older boy happened to take English. We told him he was getting some good practice and he should go back and tell his teacher. We did communicate to them that we were here to find my father’s birthplace and that he had died before he got to return to Italy. Of course I got teary eyed and I could tell they understood how special this trip was for me. The older boy asked if I loved America or Italy better. I told him I loved America and patted my heart for Italy. They understood. Hand jesters do work in Italy for a number of things.

Our train stop was in Chianciano. That is where Susie’s cousins were to pick us up. OK, we arrive, thanks to the help of our friends on the train they told us to get off. None to soon. Susie was on the computer and it was like, OMG we’re here! Get the luggage down and get off the train fast before the door closes. Just throw that luggage out the door. Whew, we made it.

There was Sue and Dick to greet us. Now we can relax for a few days. We got a very warm welcome. Sue said we needed to stop at the grocery store and pick up a few things. Oh, this should be fun.

So as we enter the grocery store Sue gets a cart. She explains to us if you want to use a cart you have to pay for it. She drops a Euro into this little slot and you get your cart. Now into the grocery store. Sue explains to us that you can’t touch any of the fresh produce with your bare hands. They have disposal plastic gloves you put on. Then you take your selection over to the scale and you enter the product code on the scale screen and out comes the label with the price. OK our selections are made and we proceed to check out. Sue has brought all her bags to carry things in because you have to pay for bags. After using the cart she returns it to where we got it. The cart has a key attached to it, you stick the key and the slot and out comes your Euro. Pretty tricky and no grocery carts cluttering up the parking lot. Now off to Montepulciano.

Stay tune for more…

Morning in Rome with Alfredo and Maura

Sunday Morning in Rome with Alfredo and Maura

Alfredo and Maura picked us up at the hotel at 9am. Check out was very interesting and I am glad we had Alfredo and Maura there to translate. First we were told there was internet and we couldn’t log on for more then 5 minutes. The staff was really no help. Breakfast was to be served from 7am to 930am. We got there on the second morning at 9 and they were already clearing the breakfast out. We asked about it the young girl said no more and there were still guests coming. Susie went to the front desk to check the time and they said til 930. So a phone call was made upstairs and we received our breakfast. Later to find out that the young girl serving us is also the person that cleans the rooms and she needed to get started. Any way there were a few more things that I am not going to waste my time on. Upon check out we told that the credit card machine was broken and they would only take Euros. I said you have my cc number, just write the amount and I will sign but I was not paying in Euros. The front desk person said we would have to talk to the owner and she was out for a walk. We waited a few minutes and here she comes. Anyway she said she didn’t speak English, which was crap. After a lot of Italian and English flying I said we are wasting our time. Take the credit card or we are leaving. She told the guy to get the cc machine. He said, “It’s magic, it works”.

Off to the Coliseum and visiting the ruins. What an interesting place. More walking and climbing. It is always fun to spend time with Alfredo and Maura. They are really a cute couple. They banter back and forth in Italian and she is always telling Alfredo to speak English. Walking up one of the areas to the ruins we see an olive tree. Alfredo loves olive trees. They then tell us that they have apiece of property with about 50 olive trees on it. It is just outside Florence. They said last year was their first year to harvest and. Some friends of theirs had the machine to make the olives into olive oil and they said they were still using it. I repeat, Alfredo loves the land and open space.

Alfredo and Jean by the olive tree

Jean, Alfredo, Maura and Susie at the Ruins

Maura drinking from the many drinking fountains

We also went to the Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi. It was a beautiful viewpoint that overlooked the city. It also had a huge bronze statute of a horse on it. There was also a wedding going on up there.

As we continued on we talked of our plans for next weekend and going to Nerito. They had suggested that maybe we leave some of our luggage with them instead of taking it all on the train. We were thinking the same thing. We decided we would meet them at the café across from the station at 10. We were to take the fast train from Florence back to Rome and then drive to Nerito.

I know I keep repeating myself, but they are so kind. They went with us to train station and made sure we had the correct ticket(Susie and I had purchased the day before). They also wanted to make sure we were at the right track(Susie and I had figured that out before hand). Maura kept telling us to watch our purses. We were very good about that. We then told them we would be ok and that they should get on with their day. We did the Italian good bye and off they went.

Our first train ride. OK, need to be really ready to get on the train. We had assigned seats so we knew what train car and what seat number but we really didn’t quite know what to expect. When the train stops you better be ready to jump on with all your stuff, oh my. Now I know why you are suppose to pack light and Maura and Alfredo said we should leave some luggage with them. Now don’t forget that rule, validate that darn ticket. OK, made it to our seats, what to do with the luggage. Are you kidding, we have to put it above our seats with 5 other people sitting there. Thank goodness for nice young Italian guy. He just grabbed our things and put them up there . Didn’t even have to ask. Take note young guys. OK off to Montepulciano.

The crazy train station in Rome

More crazy train station

Stay tune for the train ride……..